Securing a stone.
In jewelry, it’s an utterly standard process. But that method also imposes limits on the stone’s shape.
For example, the “bezel setting,” which surrounds a stone with metal. It’s a rational structure that holds the stone securely, but at the same time, the stone has to be shaped to fit the frame. Fitting the stone into a predetermined outline. We wondered if that relationship could be changed just a little.
I wanted to handle the shape of a stone more freely.
“Staple” began with that thought.
The architectural material that sparked the idea
The inspiration came from a tool used in construction called a “kasugai,” or staple. It is used to join two components together with a minimal structure.
Rather than enclosing, it supports by passing through. Applying that idea to stone setting revealed a structure that makes the most of the stone’s natural outline.
The reality of “drilling two holes”
To achieve a structure that makes the most of the stone’s natural outline, two holes must be drilled through the center of the stone. It sounds simple, but the actual processing is extremely delicate and difficult. The two holes must be perpendicular to the stone’s table and precisely parallel to each other. Even the slightest misalignment will prevent the parts from passing through straight, making the piece unusable as jewelry.
With a standard drilling machine, the openings being worked on are covered by abrasive material that has turned muddy and are almost impossible to see. The work must proceed relying only on the sense of touch, making precise drilling extremely difficult. For that reason, the workshop introduced a drilling machine dedicated to Staple, and skilled artisans carry out the work.
Using a drill coated with diamond particles at the tip, the stone is carefully carved away. But this process is not easy either.
The stones used for Staple have random shapes. Normally, the stone is fixed in place during drilling, but because of its shape, it is difficult to secure with tools, so the artisan must hold it by hand while processing it.
After shaving off a few millimeters, the kasugai part is inserted to check the angle and position. By repeating that process many times, the precision of the two holes is gradually matched.
As the work progresses, the drill tip wears down as well. To maintain precision, the bit must be replaced each time.
After far more time and effort than expected, two parallel holes finally pass through a single stone.
A structure that frees the stone’s shape
The stone completed in this way is supported not by being set into a metal frame, but by passing through the kasugai parts. That difference dramatically changes how it looks.
Its outline remains intact, and the expression within is not blocked. The natural variation created by hand polishing is also preserved. By changing the structure, the very nature of the stone changes.
Rather than forcing the stone to conform to a preset constraint, we design the structure of the jewelry itself to suit the stone.
“Staple” is a collection created for that purpose.
