Diamond, whose name derives from "adamas" meaning "unconquerable." Its cutting techniques flourished greatly in medieval Europe. The holiday season limited collection "Selectable Diamonds" features four special diamonds, from those devised in the 16th century to those developed recently. Each cut reveals its history and characteristics.TYPE01: Rose Cut｜A sparkle born under candlelightFeatured item: Rosecut Diamond Combi RingBefore the invention of electric lights, the rose cut diamond was devised in the early 16th century when people still spent nights by candlelight. In Europe at that time, parties called soirées were held almost every night, where nobles gathered to enjoy music, balls, ballet, opera, and theater.
Because it emitted a fantastic sparkle under candlelight, the rose cut diamond quickly became popular among the royalty and nobility attending soirées. Its modest yet elegant and refined sparkle captivated people’s hearts.
At the time the rose cut was devised, the modern brilliance using light refraction and dispersion had not yet been discovered. What fascinated the nobles at the soirées was the sparkle created by light reflecting off the diamond’s cut surfaces, called scintillation (mirror reflection).To reflect as much light as possible, the surface of the rose cut diamond is entirely covered with triangular facets. Unlike the currently mainstream brilliant cut diamonds, it produces a modest, refined, and moist sparkle.
TYPE02: Emerald Cut｜A rare presence
Item:
Emeraldcut Diamond Combi Ring
Around the 16th century, the early days of diamond cutting, the cut originally used for the fragile Colombian emerald was applied to diamonds. The emerald cut has large flat surfaces, so inclusions, scratches, or dirt become noticeable, meaning only high-quality diamonds are used. It is said that such diamonds make up less than 2% of all diamonds.
The beauty lies in the transparency and shape derived from the quality of the material. Like the rose cut diamond, the brilliance created by light reflecting off the diamond’s cut surfaces, called scintillation (mirror reflection), produces a calm and dignified presence.
TYPE03: Round Brilliant Cut｜Standard and supremeItem:
Diamond Combi Ring
The round brilliant cut is said to have been invented in 17th century Venice. Later, with the invention of electric lights brightening the world, the demand for stronger and more beautiful sparkle grew.
In the 20th century, Marcel Tolkowsky, a diamond cutter and mathematician, applied the laws of light and mathematical knowledge to theoretically derive the diamond shape best suited to emit the most beautiful, balanced sparkle and dispersion of colors. This led to the introduction of the round brilliant cut diamond with 58 facets, which remains a widely circulated representative diamond cut today.
Tolkowsky identified three main elements that create a diamond’s sparkle: "dispersion of colors (dispersion)," "strong brilliance from internal reflection (brilliance)," and "sparkle on the diamond’s surface that moves with motion (scintillation)." The balanced combination of these produces the characteristic dazzling sparkle of diamonds.TYPE04: Princess Cut｜An evolved brilliant cut
Item:
Princesscut Diamond Combi Ring
The princess cut, a relatively new cut introduced in the late 1970s, can be understood as a square version of the round brilliant cut. Its beauty and appealing name made it the most successful cut in the latter half of the 20th century.
With 76 facets, its delicate mosaic pattern extending to the four corners creates an especially strong sparkle. It is crafted with a thick shape to highlight its beautiful and intense brilliance.
TYPE05: Cushion Cut｜The origin of the brilliant cutItem: Cushioncut BrownDiamond Combi Ring (currently not available)
The cushion cut diamond appeared as a holiday season limited edition in 2024. Its name comes from its rounded square shape reminiscent of a cushion. The combination of disciplined straight lines created by polishing and the added curves gives an elegant impression.
The brilliant cut established in the 18th century had a cushion shape. At that time, the priority was to minimize loss when cutting rare diamond rough stones, so polishing methods that followed the shape of the rough stone with minimal cutting were adopted.
It remained the mainstream diamond cut for about two centuries until the 20th century, when cutting methods based on theoretical and mathematical calculations to maximize brilliance were established. It can truly be called the origin of the brilliant cut.
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Holiday Season Limited Collection｜Selectable Diamonds
Since the Middle Ages, the world of diamond polishing flourished mainly in Europe. From the antique sparkle of the "Rose Cut" devised in the 16th century to the "Round Brilliant Cut," which is now the standard cutting style, various cuts have been devised over time. The collection "Selectable Diamonds" offers four special diamonds, each with a different cut.
Afterwards, for nearly two centuries until the 20th century—when cutting methods based on theoretical and mathematical calculations to maximize brilliance were established—this remained the mainstream diamond cut. It is truly the origin of the brilliant cut.
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Since the Middle Ages, the world of diamond cutting has flourished, especially in Europe. From the antique brilliance of the "rose cut," devised in the 16th century, to the "round brilliant cut," which has become the modern standard, a variety of cuts have been created over the years. In our "Selectable Diamonds" collection, we offer four special diamonds, each featuring a unique cut.
