Xmas Limited Collection選べるダイヤモンドCombination jewelry adorned with round brilliant cut diamonds, developed with a design that allows you to enjoy the sparkle of the diamonds even from the side, thanks to the ultra-fine platinum claws that secure the stones. Behind this realization lies the existence of a "special platinum" that made the impossible possible.
"Design realized with "special platinum"
We aimed for a design that makes the diamond appear to float at first glance. To ensure that the brilliance of the diamond is not obstructed, we used silver-colored platinum for the four prongs that hold the diamond in place.
ただ、プラチナは、ゴールドなど他の貴金属に比べ柔らかい金属。通常プラチナを使い、今回のようなダイヤモンドの留め方をする場合、写真のピアスのように、少なくとも爪を6本にしたり、台座を設ける必要があります。
どちらにしてもパーツの分量が増えてくるため、見た目の印象もすっきりしません。それを解決してくれたのが、世界にも類を見ない硬さを誇る特別なプラチナ『タイムレスプラチナム950®（以下、TLP950®）』でした。
This time, we were able to create the base part, including the claws, as thin as possible while maintaining durability as a ring, thanks to 'TLP950®'. It can be said that this design was made possible by the existence of "special platinum."
Until Hard Platinum is Made
『TLP950®』 is an original platinum material patented by our partner workshop. The motivation to challenge the creation of platinum, which boasts overwhelming hardness, came from the voices of our customers.
“I’ve gotten a scratch on the wedding ring that I’ve been wearing for so long.” Every time he heard that voice, the former president of the workshop felt disappointed. He resolved to take action and began developing new materials.
At first, there was no prospect of development at all. With the help of a craftsman known as the "Goldsmith Doctor" who worked in the workshop at the time, we finally grasped a clue for development, thinking, "This should theoretically produce hard platinum." However, this was merely a theoretical discussion. It took more than two years and countless repetitions of prototypes before it was actually completed. Thus, platinum, boasting overwhelming hardness, was finally completed.
「硬度」と「強度」
ジュエリーの耐久性を測る尺度には"Hardness" and "Strength"があります。
First, let's talk about "hardness." There is a unit called "Hv" (Vickers hardness) that represents the hardness of metals. The higher this value, the more resistant it is to scratches and dents, allowing it to maintain a beautiful appearance for a long time. Let's compare how hard 'TLP950®' is compared to other materials.
It has approximately 3.7 times the hardness of common platinum (Pt950). Compared to other metals, it is clear that it has overwhelming hardness.
I scratched common platinum (Pt950) and 'TLP950®' with a coin. The common platinum plate (left) has clear scratch marks, while the 'TLP950' plate (right) shows only faint scratch marks. There are hardly any scratches.
Next is "strength." The greater the strength, the less likely it is to cause distortion or deformation.
Here are the results of an experiment that measured the strength of a platinum ring by applying pressure from above and below. Even under pressure that would typically crush regular platinum and make it bend, the ring made of 'TLP950®' maintains its original shape beautifully.
Materials that seek ingenuity
Due to its extraordinary hardness, it cannot be treated in the same way as other materials when being crafted into jewelry. Just the process of bending the prongs that hold the diamonds becomes significantly more difficult simply because of the hardness. The presence of artisans who can skillfully manipulate this unparalleled level of hardness is indispensable.
"Anyway, it's surprisingly hard (laughs), so there are many cases where traditional methods don't work well. To cope with this hardness, not only the way tools are used but also improvements to the tools themselves are necessary. We often create our own specialized tools."
"How to deal with difficult materials. Through repeated trial and error, before you know it, the range of skills as a craftsman has expanded. Technological innovation arises from such experiences. 'TLP950®' is a material worth challenging."
Special materials and the craftsmanship that utilizes them have made it possible to create single diamond jewelry. Designs that seemed unlikely were born in this way.
