Holiday Season Limited Collection選べるダイヤモンドA combination jewelry adorned with round brilliant cut diamonds, showcased in a design that allows you to enjoy the brilliance of the diamonds even from the side, thanks to the ultra-fine platinum prongs that secure the stones. Behind this realization lies the existence of a "special platinum" that made the impossible possible.
Design realized with "special platinum"
We aimed for a design that makes the diamond appear to float at first glance. To ensure that the brilliance of the diamond is not obstructed, we used silver-colored platinum for the four prongs that hold the diamond in place.
However, platinum is a softer metal compared to other precious metals like gold. When using platinum and setting diamonds as in this case, it is necessary to have at least six prongs or a base, as shown in the photo of the earrings.
In any case, as the amount of parts increases, the overall appearance becomes less tidy. The solution to this was the special platinum 'Timeless Platinum 950® (hereinafter, TLP950®)', which boasts an unparalleled hardness in the world.
This time, we were able to create the base part, including the claws, as thin as possible while maintaining durability as a ring, thanks to 'TLP950®'. It can be said that this design was made possible by the existence of "special platinum."
How Hard Platinum is Made
『TLP950®』is an original platinum material patented by our partner workshop. The motivation to challenge the creation of platinum, which boasts overwhelming hardness, came from the voices of our customers.
"I was disappointed every time I heard the voice saying, 'My wedding ring, which I have worn for so long, has gotten scratched.'" The previous president of the workshop was motivated by this and decided to start developing new materials.
At first, there was no prospect of being able to develop it at all. With the help of a craftsman known as the "Goldsmith Doctor" who was working in the workshop at the time, we finally grasped a clue to development with the idea that "theoretically, this should produce hard platinum." However, this was merely a theoretical discussion. It took more than two years and countless repetitions of prototypes before it was actually completed. Thus, platinum, boasting overwhelming hardness, was finally completed.
"Hardness" and "Strength"
The durability of jewelry is measured by "hardness" and "strength."
First, let's talk about "hardness." There is a unit called "Hv" (Vickers hardness) that represents the hardness of metals. The higher this value, the more resistant it is to scratches and dents, allowing it to maintain a beautiful appearance for a longer time. Let's compare how hard 'TLP950®' is compared to other materials.
It has approximately 3.7 times the hardness of common platinum (Pt950). Compared to other metals, it is clear that it has overwhelming hardness.
I scratched common platinum (Pt950) and 'TLP950®' with a coin. The common platinum plate (left) has clear scratch marks, while the 'TLP950' plate (right) shows only faint scratch marks. It is almost unscathed.
Next is "strength." The greater the strength, the less likely it is to cause distortion or deformation.
Here are the results of the experiment where pressure was applied from above and below to measure the strength of a platinum ring. Even under pressure that would typically crush regular platinum and make it bend, the ring made of 'TLP950®' maintains its original shape beautifully.
Materials that seek ingenuity
Due to its extraordinary hardness, it cannot be treated like other materials when being crafted into jewelry. Even the task of bending the prongs that hold the diamonds becomes significantly more difficult simply because of its hardness. The presence of skilled artisans who can manipulate this unparalleled level of hardness is indispensable.
"Anyway, it's surprisingly hard (laughs), so there are many cases where traditional methods don't work well. To cope with this hardness, not only the way tools are used but also improvements to the tools themselves are necessary. We often create our own specialized tools."
"How to deal with difficult materials. Through repeated trial and error, before you know it, the range of skills as a craftsman has expanded. Innovation in technology arises from such experiences. 'TLP950®' is a material worth challenging."
A single diamond jewelry made possible by special materials and the craftsmanship of skilled artisans. This design, which seems like it should exist, was created in this way.
